Keten Kumaşların Doğal Eko Baskı ile Renklendirilmesi: Çekiç ve Buhar Yöntemlerinin Karşılaştırılması
Abstract
Giyim sektörü dünyanın en hızlı büyüyen sektörlerinden biridir. Elyaftan bitmiş ürüne kadar uzanan giyim endüstrisinin evrimi, bazen çevremiz üzerinde zararlı etkilere sahiptir. Günümüzde tekstil endüstrisinde kimyasalların zararlı maddelerinin kullanımını azaltıp, çevre dostu giysiler geliştirmek için çeşitli teknikler uygulanmaktadır. Bu araştırma ile doğal kumaş üzerine çiçekler kullanılarak eko baskılar oluşturulması amaçlanmıştır. İşlem sürecinde keten kumaş kullanılmıştır. Deneysel araştırma sürdürülürken iki farklı yöntem uygulanmıştır. Yöntemlerden ilki çiçeklerin pigmentlerini bir çekiç yardımıyla kumaşın üzerine aktaran “döverek boyama tekniği” ‘dir. Diğer yöntem ise başlangıçta çiçeklerin kumaşın üzerine yerleştirilmesidir, daha sonra kumaşın rulo şeklinde bağlanıp bir kapta buhar yardımıyla çiçeklerin pigmentleri kumaşa aktarılmasını sağlayan “buharlama tekniği” dir. Her iki yöntemin sonuçları: baskıların renkleri, tonları, kontür netlikleri ve renk haslıkları açısından karşılaştırılmıştır. Bu teknikler kullanılarak tekstil endüstrisinde; kumaş üzerine çiçek baskıları oluşturmak için normal zamanda kullanılan sentetik boyaların aksine, doğal boyalar içeren çevre dostu çiçek baskıları oluşturulabilir. Ayrıca, çiçek dövme tekniği ile tek tip (fabrikasyon) olmayan, kişiye özel tasarımlar geliştirilebilir.
Keywords
Supporting Institution
haliç üniversitesi
Thanks
Prof. Dr. Banu Yeşi̇m Büyükakıncı
References
- Ado, A., Yahaya, H., Kwalli, A. A., ve Abdulkadir, R. S. (2014). Dyeing of textiles with eco-friendly natural dyes: A review. International Journal of Environmental Monitoring and Protection, 1(5), 76-81.
- Bintrim, R. (2008). Eco Colour: Botanical Dyes for Beautiful Textiles by India Flint. Fashion Theory, 12(4), 547–550.
- Eugster, C. H. ve Märki‐Fischer, E. (1991). The chemistry of Rose Pigments. Angewandte Chemie International Edition in English, 30(6), 654-672.
- Frischkorn, A., ve Sandrin, A. (2001). Flower pounding: Quilt projects for all ages. California: C&T Publishing Inc. Haar, S. J. (2011). From the garden garments. Fiberarts, 37(4), 18-19.
- Haar, S. J. & Doty, K. (2017). Pounded plants on cotton: Methods, outcomes, and colorfastness of post-treatments. In 10th International Shibori Symposium (ss. 59-66).
- Haar, S., Schrader, E., & Gatewood, B. M. (2013). Comparison of aluminum mordants on the colorfastness of natural dyes on cotton. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 31(2), 97-108.
- İşmail, Ö. (2016). Patterns from nature: contact printing. Journal of the TEXTILE Association, 77(2), 81-91.
- Karakoç, D., ve Can, D. İ, (2022). Ekolojik Baskıda Yenilikçi Yaklaşımlar: Pas Baskı Shibori. Star Sanat ve Tasarım Araştırmaları Dergisi, 2(3), 279-289.
- Martin, L. C. (2003). The art and craft of pounding flowers. Rodale.
- Priya, R., Das, S., & RP, N. (2021). Eco-friendly printing on cotton scarf using flower pounding technique. Man-Made Textiles in India, 49(9), 303-307.
- Ratnayaka, N., & Haar, S. (2022). The Unseen Art of Flowers: A Value-Added Application for Floral Waste. In International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Conference Proceedings 78(1). Iowa State University Digital Press.
- Rungruangkitkrai, N. & Mongkholrattanasit, R. (2012). Eco-friendly of textiles dyeing and printing with natural dyes. In RMUTP international conference: textiles & fashion 3(4), 1-17.
- Singh, S. H. W. E. T. A., & Singh, D. R. (2018). Application of natural mordants on textile. International Journal of Applied Home Science, 5(1), 252-260.
- Tyrach, A., & Horn, W. (1997). Inheritance of flower colour and flavonoid pigments in Gerbera. Plant breeding, 116(4), 377-381.
- Wheldale, M. (1909). The colours and pigments of flowers with special reference to genetics. Proceedings of the Royal Society of London. Series B, Containing Papers of a Biological Character, 81(545), 44-60.
- Zhu, J., Guo, X., Li, X., & Tang, D. (2021). Composition of flavonoids in the petals of Freesia and prediction of four novel transcription factors involving in Freesia flavonoid pathway. Frontiers in Plant Science, 12, 756300.
Abstract
The clothing industry is one of the fastest growing industries in the world. The evolution of the clothing industry from fiber to finished products often has harmful effects on our environment. Today, various techniques are applied in the textile industry to reduce the use of harmful chemical substances to develop eco-friendly clothes. With this research, it was aimed to create eco prints by using flowers on natural fabric. Linen fabric was used in the process. Two different methods were applied during the experimental research. The first method is the “hammered dyeing technique” which transfers the flower pigments onto the fabric with the help of a hammer. The other method is the “steaming technique”, which is to initially place flowers on the fabric, then tie them into a roll and transfer the pigments of the flowers to the fabric with the help of steam in a container. The resulting prints of both methods were compared in terms of colors, tones, contour clarity and color fastness. Using these techniques in the textile industry, eco-friendly flower prints containing natural dyes can be created instead of synthetic dyes commonly used to produce flower prints on fabric. In addition, with the flower pounding technique, personalized designs, that are not uniform (fabrication) style, can be developed.
Keywords
References
- Ado, A., Yahaya, H., Kwalli, A. A., ve Abdulkadir, R. S. (2014). Dyeing of textiles with eco-friendly natural dyes: A review. International Journal of Environmental Monitoring and Protection, 1(5), 76-81.
- Bintrim, R. (2008). Eco Colour: Botanical Dyes for Beautiful Textiles by India Flint. Fashion Theory, 12(4), 547–550.
- Eugster, C. H. ve Märki‐Fischer, E. (1991). The chemistry of Rose Pigments. Angewandte Chemie International Edition in English, 30(6), 654-672.
- Frischkorn, A., ve Sandrin, A. (2001). Flower pounding: Quilt projects for all ages. California: C&T Publishing Inc. Haar, S. J. (2011). From the garden garments. Fiberarts, 37(4), 18-19.
- Haar, S. J. & Doty, K. (2017). Pounded plants on cotton: Methods, outcomes, and colorfastness of post-treatments. In 10th International Shibori Symposium (ss. 59-66).
- Haar, S., Schrader, E., & Gatewood, B. M. (2013). Comparison of aluminum mordants on the colorfastness of natural dyes on cotton. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 31(2), 97-108.
- İşmail, Ö. (2016). Patterns from nature: contact printing. Journal of the TEXTILE Association, 77(2), 81-91.
- Karakoç, D., ve Can, D. İ, (2022). Ekolojik Baskıda Yenilikçi Yaklaşımlar: Pas Baskı Shibori. Star Sanat ve Tasarım Araştırmaları Dergisi, 2(3), 279-289.
- Martin, L. C. (2003). The art and craft of pounding flowers. Rodale.
- Priya, R., Das, S., & RP, N. (2021). Eco-friendly printing on cotton scarf using flower pounding technique. Man-Made Textiles in India, 49(9), 303-307.
- Ratnayaka, N., & Haar, S. (2022). The Unseen Art of Flowers: A Value-Added Application for Floral Waste. In International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Conference Proceedings 78(1). Iowa State University Digital Press.
- Rungruangkitkrai, N. & Mongkholrattanasit, R. (2012). Eco-friendly of textiles dyeing and printing with natural dyes. In RMUTP international conference: textiles & fashion 3(4), 1-17.
- Singh, S. H. W. E. T. A., & Singh, D. R. (2018). Application of natural mordants on textile. International Journal of Applied Home Science, 5(1), 252-260.
- Tyrach, A., & Horn, W. (1997). Inheritance of flower colour and flavonoid pigments in Gerbera. Plant breeding, 116(4), 377-381.
- Wheldale, M. (1909). The colours and pigments of flowers with special reference to genetics. Proceedings of the Royal Society of London. Series B, Containing Papers of a Biological Character, 81(545), 44-60.
- Zhu, J., Guo, X., Li, X., & Tang, D. (2021). Composition of flavonoids in the petals of Freesia and prediction of four novel transcription factors involving in Freesia flavonoid pathway. Frontiers in Plant Science, 12, 756300.
Details
| Primary Language | Turkish |
|---|---|
| Subjects | Textile and Fashion Design |
| Journal Section | Research Articles |
| Authors | |
| Publication Date | December 29, 2023 |
| Submission Date | June 5, 2023 |
| Published in Issue | Year 2023 Volume: 4 Issue: 7 |
